Koh Samui has come a long way from its days as a sleepy island of coconut groves, Chinese traders and the occasional backpacker. Today, it’s an exciting blend of old and new, where jungle-covered hills give way to pale-sand beaches, and traditional fishing villages sit alongside some of Thailand’s most luxurious resorts.
The island is set just off the mainland in the turquoise waters of the Gulf of Thailand, and its size makes it ideal for a weekend break or longer. Head out and you’ll quickly come across serene temples and dramatic waterfalls, beach clubs humming to the sound of sunset DJs and fishermen hauling daily catches that supply both local markets and top restaurants.
Whether you want to spend your time on the water, in the jungle or simply sun-bathing by the sea, here’s how to make the most of a weekend on one of Thailand’s best islands.
For more Koh Samui inspiration, see our guides to the island’s best hotels, restaurants, bars, things to do and beaches.
In this guide:
How to spend a weekend
Day one: morning
Arriving at Koh Samui Airport feels like stepping straight into island life, with its shaded walkways, thatched roofs, rattan loungers and tropical gardens. To lean into that laid-back luxury from the moment you land, the first port of call should be the Jim Thompson store, located just outside the arrivals area. Known for its contemporary Thai silk creations, the brand’s designs featured in season three of The White Lotus, a clue to understated glamour inside.
Holiday fashion secured, it’s time to dive into Koh Samui’s cultural side. Head north to Wat Plai Laem, where a striking 18-armed statue of Guanyin, the Chinese goddess of mercy, stands as a serene symbol of the island’s long Thai-Chinese heritage. Just across the road and out to sea is the gilded Big Buddha at Wat Phra Yai. Pause here to make a simple offering of fruit or flowers, browse for protective amulets, and take in the tranquility and sweeping sea views.
Wat Phra Yai; Koh Samui travel guide
Visit the Big Buddha at Wat Phra Yai before stopping by Bangrak Market, a 10-minute walk away – Pierrick Lemaret/Getty Images; Arkadij Schell/Getty Images
Afternoon
Your first lunch on Koh Samui should celebrate the bounty of the Gulf of Thailand, so stroll the 10 minutes from Wat Phra Yai to Bangrak Market. Browsing the abundance of fresh fish and produce on display is a joy at this ramshackle local market, but it’s also possible to pick something out and have it cooked on the spot.
For a more hands-on introduction, an early fishing trip with Mr Tu is another option. Under the guidance of a local fisherman (and in some cases, Mr Tu himself), you’ll learn to reel in snapper and trevally and cook it at sea.
Picturesque Chaweng Beach is a lively spot in the evenings – Preto_perola/Getty Images
By now, downtime has been well earned. Sticking to the north, it’s easy to detour to Thongson Bay. This relatively untouched white-sand cove is rarely crowded – perhaps due to its lack of facilities – but it’s paradise for those seeking quiet sunsets and a gentle paddle.
Late
As the sky turns orange, settle in for dinner at Kan Sak Thong, located within Melati Beach Resort near Thongson Bay. Its predominantly southern Thai menu carries subtle French influence, meaning you could equally go for a classic red curry or a cognac and wine-baked lobster. Alternatively, venture a little further to Long Dtai, set on a private island with sandbar access from Choeng Mon Beach. Helmed by chef David Thompson, the Michelin-listed restaurant showcases regional fare with a strong focus on sustainability.
To round out the evening, head to lively Chaweng Beach for a nightcap. Bars like The Powder Room (open Wednesday-Sunday) and The Library hotel’s bar are mellow, upmarket alternatives to the area’s more raucous venues. But for those who want the quintessential experience, ARKbar’s fire shows run until midnight, and its beach parties even later.
Sunset at the beach; Koh Samui travel guide
Fire shows often take place on Koh Samui’s beaches when the sun goes down – tropicalpixsingapore/Getty Images; Dukas/Universal Images Group via Getty Images
Day two: morning
Day two sees you leave Koh Samui for a half-day escape to Koh Madsum – better known as Pig Island. Several operators offer trips here, often with direct hotel pick-up for ease, but Longlae Samui stands out for its more affordable and customisable options.
Its tours vary, but some start with a glass of bubbles on the upper deck before disembarking to meet the island’s cutest residents: a herd of pigs who love to snooze, nuzzle and play in the morning sun. After a relaxed lunch on board, skippers will drift over to the coral gardens off neighbouring Koh Tan for a quick snorkel in clear, crowd-free waters.
Join a morning tour to the island of Koh Madsum to meet its resident pigs – Benjamin Cerf/iStockphoto
Afternoon
It’s impossible to tick off all Koh Samui’s highlights in a weekend so this afternoon presents two appealing options. Visit Samui Elephant Home and spend the afternoon observing gentle giants in a natural setting. While elephant tourism in Thailand can be controversial, this sanctuary focuses on welfare, with proceeds supporting reforestation and local community projects.
Nearby, you’ll find the Na Muang 1 and Na Muang 2 waterfalls. The first cascades into a purple-hued rockpool that’s ideal for swimming, while the taller second fall rewards a short hike with limpid pools and panoramic views of the island.
Alternatively, enjoy a more restorative afternoon with one of Koh Samui’s highly regarded wellness experiences. Choose Kamalaya Koh Samui, the award-winning retreat built around an ancient monk’s meditation cave, for sound therapy, herbal steam rituals and personalised programmes. Or head north to Anantara Bophut, where fans of The White Lotus can meditate in the very same spa featured in the series.
Koh Samui travel guide
The Na Muang waterfalls require a short hike to reach; Samui Elephant Home runs welfare-led initiatives – Marco Pompeo Photography/Alamy Stock Photo
Late
As evening settles in, make your way to Fisherman’s Village for another taste of local life. Its quaint wooden shophouses, remnants of Koh Samui’s trading past – are now home to independent boutiques, galleries and some of the island’s freshest seafood hauls. Visit on a Friday evening and the whole area transforms into a lantern-lit walking street that comes alive with music, market stalls and freshly squeezed tropical juices.
From here, ease into the night with a jungle-themed sunset cocktail at nearby Garnish, or for something more low-key and local, sample Thai craft beers at the Lucky To Be Alive Taproom.
Later, return to Chaweng to catch Thailand’s national sport, Muay Thai, at the Samui International Muay Thai Stadium. Traditional music, ceremonial wai kru dances and the roaring crowd make it a memorable end to the day.
When to go
Thailand stays warm all year round, and temperatures rarely dip below the mid-20s in tropical Koh Samui. Calm water and cooler sunshine make December to February popular times to visit, while April brings heat and humidity alongside short, sharp rainfall that peaks in the monsoon season (October and November). While rain can mean rougher waters, it also brings fewer tourists and excellent off-season deals for those happy to trade sunshine for savings.
Where to stay
Luxury living
The Four Seasons, situated on a palm-forested slope on the north-western tip of Koh Samui, delivers a lot more than just its spectacular location. The pool villas emerging from the foliage are elegant and beyond comfortable, and with countless activities, two restaurants and a virtually private beach, there are plenty of reasons to linger.
Boutique beauty
Family-friendly Tembo Beach Club & Resort – set in lively Bangrak, in the northeast of Koh Samui – offers old school tropical vibes. It’s home to 10 handsome villas, all kept in spotless white, and is fronted by a pool with views across the beach. There’s also a great restaurant here, turning out both Thai and international cuisine.
Tembo Beach Club & Resort is home to 10 beautiful villas – Lesley Fisher
Budget bolthole
Avani+ Samui Resort, located in a quiet bay in the southwestern corner of Koh Samui, is as serene as it gets on the island. This shoreline resort, far from the party beaches, offers handsome rooms and villas with pools, good Thai and international food, a laid-back beach bar plus kayaking and cycling opportunities.
How to get there and how to get around
Bangkok Airways serves Koh Samui Airport, with most flights connecting via Bangkok or Singapore. The airline also operates regular flights from Phuket and Chiang Mai. Budget travellers might instead consider the overnight bus or train to Surat Thani and continue to the island by ferry.
Once on Koh Samui, pre-booked taxis and transfers reach most areas quickly, while shared songthaews that run along the main road offer a more affordable way to explore coastal highlights. For maximum flexibility, renting a scooter is another popular option.
Know before you go
Essential information
Tourist police: 1155
Ambulance: 1669
General emergency: 191
Fire: 199
British embassy: +66(0)2 305 8333
The basics
Currency: Thai baht
International dialling code: +66
Time zone: GMT+7
Travel time from London: Flights to Koh Samui connect via Bangkok or Singapore, with a total flight time of around 14-16 hours.
Local etiquette
Dress modestly when visiting temples – shoulders and knees should be covered. Swimwear and going topless (for men) is fine on the beach but not generally acceptable in malls, markets or town areas. Avoid any criticism of the monarchy, as Thailand’s lèse-majesté laws are among the strictest in the world.
Accessibility
Koh Samui has limited accessibility outside purpose-built resorts. Remote beaches and waterfalls are hard to reach, and many roads lack footpaths. Even if hotels advertise wheelchair-friendly rooms or facilities, it’s wise to contact the property to confirm it will meet your needs.
About our expert
Aydan Stuart
Aydan Stuart is a writer and travel expert living in Thailand. Here for over 15 years, he is currently based in Chiang Mai but is always exploring. When not at his desk, Aydan can be found exploring wild mountain trails, discovering hidden beaches, hosting radio shows and seeking out fun, whisky-infused atmospheres.
Aydan Stuart, Telegraph Travel’s Koh Samui expert